As we were moving on to a new locale today, I started with floating around the clinic hotel's small private lagoon, open to guests only and not even all guests at all times. The lovely place we stayed is a small inn AND medical clinic, as the lagoon water has actually been proven in multiple studies to treat psoriasis. I guess there's not enough medical business or it's not lucrative enough, so they fill up the rooms with tourists.
After my paddle - it is so lovely being out in a warm pool while it's snowing - we had breakfast, and while Adam headed out for a couple of last photos I checked out and planned a route for us. I decided to ignore Google maps, which really doesn't know how to get around Iceland too well anyway, and be a little reckless and route us along the very sparsely populated, secondary road that hugs the south coast of the Reykjanes peninsula. I'm not stupid, though, I checked with the hotel desk for advice and they said the road should be fine and clear, and just to slow down if it was icy.
Turns out it wasn't icy at all, and I'm really getting spoiled with Adam doing the driving so I could sight-see all down the coast. We didn't end up with many pictures for that drive, though, for interesting little cultural or touristy spots were nil, and while the stark landscape is still so beautiful, it doesn't translate well in a photo. Oh, at one point early in the drive, though, we saw our first Icelandic sheep! Adam pointed out the field from quite a distance, where there seemed to be a grassier-looking (as opposed to lava-rocky) area dotted with rectangular bales, and he said there must be a farm as he could see hay bales, the first hint we'd had of ANY crop or animal operation in the area. As we got closer, I said "I think some of those bales are moving"... and lo and behold, they were in fact a flock of blocky little sheep, shaggy down to their feet with their winter wool.
The drive was uneventful to the very end when, being led astray by a combination of Google Maps and sketchy directions from the agent, I directed us to some odd locations that were NOT our Frost-and-Fire Guesthouse. This is OK, as we got an Icelanding travel checklist with our car rental that included "get lost in Iceland", so I guess we get that check mark. Eventually Adam made a different assumption at a roundabout which was not well described in our directions, and found the place. We are in a lodge with terrace rooms overlooking a river, with hot steam vents popping out of the steep riverbanks on both sides. Including in the driveway! This seems to be quite a normal thing here, and I'm interested to take some of the walking trails around the area and find more of them - including the two erupting ones reported to be a bit upriver.
Oh, and this town is called Hveragerdi, or properly in the Icelandic tongue, Hveragerði, which as far as I can tell with my very North American English ear, is pronounced Quer-eh-GEhr-dthi. The HV in the language is a Qu sound, and the ð letter, called eth, is a soft th as in "the" but not quite. But it's not quite a regular d, either. Somewhere between a d and a th as an English speaker would say them. It's not an easy language to catch on to here, for sure, though I'm loving the sound of it..
Once we settled in to our room, we had a bit of time so decided to walk to a town health centre where we had (included in the package, I didn't go looking for this) mud baths booked. It's just what it sounds like. Huge sarcophagi full of goopy volcanic mud, heated to roughly a-little-past-body-temp, that you squish into, an attendant being on hand to push you down as you float, and soak in for 15 minutes or so. Follow that with a warm shower, then a blanket wrap with a heated blanket to relax in. I don't know that it's really a proven therapy for anything, but it IS an interesting experience, and I'm quite well exfoliated after that and the 3 days in Blue Lagoon water with the mud masks they have. We ended that adventure with a dip in the hot pots at the centre - they have 3 different ones, outdoors on a pool deck, at different temperatures or with different jet configurations running.
Dinner was a little anti-climatic, as the restaurant we'd spotted, one I'd read about as being very good and cooking local foods in a 100% geothermal powered kitchen, was closed for renos. We wound up stopping at a little variety store that had a burger counter and shared one Icelandic hot dog (Pylsa or Pulsa) and a burger and fries. Both were decent fast food, but just that. I had heard some folks say the food was terrible here, which it is NOT at all, but it is first off a bit different, and second, a little hard to find. One thing I'm noticing is that Icelandic shops, restaurants, or cafes don't advertise the way a North American establishment would, and that seems to make them, to a North American eye, a little invisible. Not knowing the language, and not seeing big blaring logos on billboards all over, I'm finding it hard to know if I'm approaching a cafe, store, or office sometimes. I'm sure I'd get used to it in time.
In the time we were in the health centre, the weather turned from clear-just-getting-cloudy to a moderate wet snowfall, so we walked back uphill to the guesthouse in the snow. There is a small heated swimming pool here as well as a hot pot (hot tub) just under our balcony and right at the riverside, but it looks like we'll be saving those for another time and turning in a bit early tonight. We seem to have the place to ourselves and have some ground to cover tomorrow, so an early night in, now that I have got my hands on some cough medicine and hence half a chance at a full night's sleep, seems like a good idea.
Wednesday, February 29, 2012
Tuesday, February 28, 2012
Iceland, Day 2
Something nice about visiting a small country is that you can pack a lot of it into one day.
We took our time over breakfast while I browsed a pocket guidebook for the area and caught up on tweets, and then headed out to meander more of the Reykjanes Peninsula. On a whim I told Adam to take a right rather than left, and started us on a route towards but not into Reykjavik, through which we looped back along a coast road in an area of sparse farmsteads. The roads here are interesting - clear and in good repair, but no shoulders, guardrails, or lights, except a few on the urban stretches of the main highway. The road edge markers are just plastic posts with a bit of reflector tape on them, and the roads are sort of banked up on top of the land, which is mostly lava fields. If you drove off the edge, there's nothing to stop you and you'd totally destroy the car rolling it over into a field of jagged black rock. I don't know if that just doesn't happen here because everyone drives smart, or if it's occasional but they just clean up the mess rather than add huge infrastructure and maintenance costs.
On what I'm now thinking of as the "top" loop of our somewhat wonky figure-8 shaped route today, we found lots of open fields, coast, very utilitarian-looking buildings, a bright yellow lighthouse, and a few ruins of entirely indeterminate age. Adam and I concluded they must actually be newer structures than they appear, as we found both metal wire and what looked like pieces of modern cermic dish ware in the rock and mortar walls of one. The lava rock itself looks very aged and weathered, and I'm guessing in a coastal windswept field on an earthquake-prone island country, things might erode quickly.
At the end of our first loop was the town of Vogar, mostly a small fishing village. We utterly failed to find a potential lunch stop there, so continued back towards Reykjanes town /Keflavik, but on th edge of that I spotted an industrial-looking building with the word "Kaffe..." in its name and lots of cars in the lot, and a smaller sign with the English "cafe" written on it. We ducked up the next exit off the highway and backtracked to it, to find we had landed at the head office and roasting plant for a local coffeeshop chain. Adam laughed and had to tweet that I declared my latte to be my new friend today - it was VERY good, as was my sandwich and the chocolate cake we shared from the littlel lunch counter. I assume Adam's wrap was also good but I left that for him to determine.
After lunch we headed for the west coast of the Reykjanes peninsula, about halfway down, south of the airport where we had left off our wandering the day before. It was about this point that I actually registered a few things I'd read in the guidebook and some markers on our map and realized were also heading for the outermost planet of a scale model of the solar system that is installed all along the southern half of the west coast, ending with the Sun at a large geothermal power plant which has a science exhibition. While we didn't go out of our way to find every one, in fact, since the first was somewhere in another small town that didn't look particularly touristy, we definitely skipped it, but we started with finding Neptune at a roadside stop that was also the entry point to a hike to the shore and a bird sanctuary.
It was at about this time the local weather got fun. We had a pretty stiff wind all morning, making me very grateful for my new windproof jacket AND that I'd brought my Moebius scarf, mainly as I could wrap it double as a hood and keep my hair out of my face. We had a rainstorm that turned into driving slush, though moments before it had been only a bit cloudy and breezy, and moments after we needed sunglasses again. This happened a couple more times! The good news about the weather here is first, we could see it coming, and second - it doesn't hang around long, whatever it is. I've referred to "weather tantrums" back home when we get those too-hard-to-last rainstorms but man, here they're on a 5 minute cycle. It was awesome. And even if you get wet, you don't stay that way long, as the wind comes back. Can't do much about the hypothermia, though, so lots of layers are needed.
The land here is very stark and looks like an otherworldly wilderness. But I noticed something, even shortly after leaving the airport yesterday - there are lots of subtle little signs of humanity, that are probably obvious to the locals, but for us coming from a land of video billboards and lit-up 8 lane highway signage, they're hard to spot. Cairns set up as signposts in the lava fields. The odd structure, low to the land and only intermittently visible from the road, or just some sticks or wood where there are otherwise no plants but moss. I had been looking for a picture to juxtapose these, and the planet marker proved a fun way to do it.
We continued on our way after Neptune and turned into another stop, almost hidden from the road, and walked across "The Bridge Between The Continents". Iceland is the only place the mid-Atlantic ridge is above sea level, and they've marked this remarkable tectonic location with a bridge and small walking area. The bridge crosses a sudden, deep rift in the craggy lava field, and is itself filled with fine black sand, which also makes up the dunes around the bridge.
We missed the Saturn marker somewhere, passed Jupiter on the highwayside, and then turned into the road to the power plant, finding Venus and Mercury in the driveway. Unfortunately, the exhibition "Power Plant Earth" that the trail of planets leads to was closed for the season but we stopped for a snapshot of the Sun, embedded in the lava outside the door. From here, we followed a comparatively treacherous gravel road further towards the coast, following signs labelled "Hot Springs" to find Gunnevar's springs, a natural sulpher hot spring site reputed to be haunted. I was interested to find there had been a homestead there where a farmer ran a flower farm not even a century ago, but the mud has become hotter in that time, and one has to stay on very carefully chosen paths or risk a step into scalding mud. Indeed, it was apparent the paths have had to be re-worked at least ones, as part of a previous boardwalk structure was IN the boiling mud cauldron.
After this last spectacular sight of the day, we drove the last bit of winding highway to Grindavik, the town nearest the resort we're staying at, looking to buy some local groceries for a cold dinner, and for some cough medication due to the fact that I kept BOTH of us unpleasantly awake last night with a choking cough that kept returning every time I fell asleep. Luckily almost everyone speaks English very well, or I'd have had a heck of a time trying to explain. The pharmacist sold me something that smells awful and tastes worse, the active ingredient of which is "difenhydramen" which we usually see as an antihistamine (Benadryl) but which apparently here is used for coughing. After that, we had a little fun exploring an Icelandic grocery and trying to work out what various products were. We came away with a fresh baguette, some flatbreads, fruit, lamb pepperettes and a mild orange cheese. Easy light dinner.
The day ended with another visit to the Blue Lagoon, where we took full advantage and drifted around the warm salt pool network until the closing bell rang. Even this evening, we had clear skies, clouds, and a little rain shower just in the time we were in the lagoon, and we've had a brief rainstorm while I was typing this, though we're now looking at clear skies and a crescent moon over the rock fields.
Tomorrow, we move on to a new location for our adventures, Hverargerdi at the edge of the south coast of the country.
We took our time over breakfast while I browsed a pocket guidebook for the area and caught up on tweets, and then headed out to meander more of the Reykjanes Peninsula. On a whim I told Adam to take a right rather than left, and started us on a route towards but not into Reykjavik, through which we looped back along a coast road in an area of sparse farmsteads. The roads here are interesting - clear and in good repair, but no shoulders, guardrails, or lights, except a few on the urban stretches of the main highway. The road edge markers are just plastic posts with a bit of reflector tape on them, and the roads are sort of banked up on top of the land, which is mostly lava fields. If you drove off the edge, there's nothing to stop you and you'd totally destroy the car rolling it over into a field of jagged black rock. I don't know if that just doesn't happen here because everyone drives smart, or if it's occasional but they just clean up the mess rather than add huge infrastructure and maintenance costs.
On what I'm now thinking of as the "top" loop of our somewhat wonky figure-8 shaped route today, we found lots of open fields, coast, very utilitarian-looking buildings, a bright yellow lighthouse, and a few ruins of entirely indeterminate age. Adam and I concluded they must actually be newer structures than they appear, as we found both metal wire and what looked like pieces of modern cermic dish ware in the rock and mortar walls of one. The lava rock itself looks very aged and weathered, and I'm guessing in a coastal windswept field on an earthquake-prone island country, things might erode quickly.
At the end of our first loop was the town of Vogar, mostly a small fishing village. We utterly failed to find a potential lunch stop there, so continued back towards Reykjanes town /Keflavik, but on th edge of that I spotted an industrial-looking building with the word "Kaffe..." in its name and lots of cars in the lot, and a smaller sign with the English "cafe" written on it. We ducked up the next exit off the highway and backtracked to it, to find we had landed at the head office and roasting plant for a local coffeeshop chain. Adam laughed and had to tweet that I declared my latte to be my new friend today - it was VERY good, as was my sandwich and the chocolate cake we shared from the littlel lunch counter. I assume Adam's wrap was also good but I left that for him to determine.
After lunch we headed for the west coast of the Reykjanes peninsula, about halfway down, south of the airport where we had left off our wandering the day before. It was about this point that I actually registered a few things I'd read in the guidebook and some markers on our map and realized were also heading for the outermost planet of a scale model of the solar system that is installed all along the southern half of the west coast, ending with the Sun at a large geothermal power plant which has a science exhibition. While we didn't go out of our way to find every one, in fact, since the first was somewhere in another small town that didn't look particularly touristy, we definitely skipped it, but we started with finding Neptune at a roadside stop that was also the entry point to a hike to the shore and a bird sanctuary.
It was at about this time the local weather got fun. We had a pretty stiff wind all morning, making me very grateful for my new windproof jacket AND that I'd brought my Moebius scarf, mainly as I could wrap it double as a hood and keep my hair out of my face. We had a rainstorm that turned into driving slush, though moments before it had been only a bit cloudy and breezy, and moments after we needed sunglasses again. This happened a couple more times! The good news about the weather here is first, we could see it coming, and second - it doesn't hang around long, whatever it is. I've referred to "weather tantrums" back home when we get those too-hard-to-last rainstorms but man, here they're on a 5 minute cycle. It was awesome. And even if you get wet, you don't stay that way long, as the wind comes back. Can't do much about the hypothermia, though, so lots of layers are needed.
The land here is very stark and looks like an otherworldly wilderness. But I noticed something, even shortly after leaving the airport yesterday - there are lots of subtle little signs of humanity, that are probably obvious to the locals, but for us coming from a land of video billboards and lit-up 8 lane highway signage, they're hard to spot. Cairns set up as signposts in the lava fields. The odd structure, low to the land and only intermittently visible from the road, or just some sticks or wood where there are otherwise no plants but moss. I had been looking for a picture to juxtapose these, and the planet marker proved a fun way to do it.
We continued on our way after Neptune and turned into another stop, almost hidden from the road, and walked across "The Bridge Between The Continents". Iceland is the only place the mid-Atlantic ridge is above sea level, and they've marked this remarkable tectonic location with a bridge and small walking area. The bridge crosses a sudden, deep rift in the craggy lava field, and is itself filled with fine black sand, which also makes up the dunes around the bridge.
We missed the Saturn marker somewhere, passed Jupiter on the highwayside, and then turned into the road to the power plant, finding Venus and Mercury in the driveway. Unfortunately, the exhibition "Power Plant Earth" that the trail of planets leads to was closed for the season but we stopped for a snapshot of the Sun, embedded in the lava outside the door. From here, we followed a comparatively treacherous gravel road further towards the coast, following signs labelled "Hot Springs" to find Gunnevar's springs, a natural sulpher hot spring site reputed to be haunted. I was interested to find there had been a homestead there where a farmer ran a flower farm not even a century ago, but the mud has become hotter in that time, and one has to stay on very carefully chosen paths or risk a step into scalding mud. Indeed, it was apparent the paths have had to be re-worked at least ones, as part of a previous boardwalk structure was IN the boiling mud cauldron.
After this last spectacular sight of the day, we drove the last bit of winding highway to Grindavik, the town nearest the resort we're staying at, looking to buy some local groceries for a cold dinner, and for some cough medication due to the fact that I kept BOTH of us unpleasantly awake last night with a choking cough that kept returning every time I fell asleep. Luckily almost everyone speaks English very well, or I'd have had a heck of a time trying to explain. The pharmacist sold me something that smells awful and tastes worse, the active ingredient of which is "difenhydramen" which we usually see as an antihistamine (Benadryl) but which apparently here is used for coughing. After that, we had a little fun exploring an Icelandic grocery and trying to work out what various products were. We came away with a fresh baguette, some flatbreads, fruit, lamb pepperettes and a mild orange cheese. Easy light dinner.
The day ended with another visit to the Blue Lagoon, where we took full advantage and drifted around the warm salt pool network until the closing bell rang. Even this evening, we had clear skies, clouds, and a little rain shower just in the time we were in the lagoon, and we've had a brief rainstorm while I was typing this, though we're now looking at clear skies and a crescent moon over the rock fields.
Tomorrow, we move on to a new location for our adventures, Hverargerdi at the edge of the south coast of the country.
Monday, February 27, 2012
Iceland, Day 1
Wow, I can't believe I'm here.
I guess this started with Day 0, Feb 26th, with our flight out of Toronto. It was a long way here, longer than some other times of the year, as with no direct flights, getting to Iceland's Leif Erikson Int'l Airport at Keflavik takes a hop through Boston or New York. So it's now about 9:20 am Eastern time, and we've been up for 25 hours or so, but just had lunch, I think.
We landed at Keflavik at 6:30 or thereabouts, local time. It's not a huge airport, but it was dark and overcast, so we grabbed luggage, signed for the rental car, and sat in a little cafe and had and excellent latte and croissant mini-breakfast while trying to orient ourselves. Oh, and out in the dark parking lot? As I said, it was overcast, but this eerie green-blue glow could be seen from behind the clouds, a little glimpse of the Aurora to greet us as we got here.
As dawn broke, we left the airport and headed for the nearest town. I'm still trying to suss exactly how places are named, as the map seemed to call this town all of Reykjanes, Reykjanesbaer, and Keflavik. I think it is a case of small villages having grown and melded, and the -baer (I don't have the fonts to mash that a-e together properly) might be like Canadians would call a township or county or something... the greater area around the town proper. Possibly.
Not much seemed to be happening in the early morning, and since we thought we probably could not check in to our hotel before noon or so, we went adventuring around the upper Reykjanes peninsula, which has road completely around its coast. We were somewhere between several meters or several hundred meters from the sea on this route, watching beautiful and terrible waves coming in with the wind. We've already seen calm, overcast, very windy, rain, and just now as I look out the hotel window, snow flurries. The agent at our rental counter had actually made the "Don't like the weather? Just wait a minute!" comment about Iceland's weather, and also said it's a local saying that the gods test all the weather in Iceland before sending it elsewhere. I can see how this might be.
We didn't stop and wander too much on this drive, as we were tired, still in grungy and not very warm travel clothes, and it was windy. There will be a few photos later on @shuttermonster's gallery. We did stop and wander up to a strange ruin covered in a graffiti mural, and snapped some of the land and seascape around it. The views here are dark and stark, but in a very powerful way.
We completed the morning's drive with a cut through back across the middle of the peninsula to Keflavik, where shops and diners now seemed to be open and had interesting and quite tasty "boats" (the local translation equating to "sub" as in "submarine sandwich") for lunch. From there, as @shuttermonster is the sole driver and was turning into a pumpkin, we headed right for our hotel. Very quickly out of the seaside village, we found ourselves in what I called a moldy moonscape of lava fields. Our tour included 2 nights stay at the Blue Lagoon clinic hotel, next to a geothermal spa, The Blue Lagoon, that sits on top of a volcanic rift.
Photos will follow, but at the moment I'm blogging on the ipad and quickly finding some limitations of the Blogger interface on that device. We could both stand to freshen up, take a (short) nap, and then we have massage appts at the Blue Lagoon spa itself with a complementary voucher for the lagoon.
I guess this started with Day 0, Feb 26th, with our flight out of Toronto. It was a long way here, longer than some other times of the year, as with no direct flights, getting to Iceland's Leif Erikson Int'l Airport at Keflavik takes a hop through Boston or New York. So it's now about 9:20 am Eastern time, and we've been up for 25 hours or so, but just had lunch, I think.
We landed at Keflavik at 6:30 or thereabouts, local time. It's not a huge airport, but it was dark and overcast, so we grabbed luggage, signed for the rental car, and sat in a little cafe and had and excellent latte and croissant mini-breakfast while trying to orient ourselves. Oh, and out in the dark parking lot? As I said, it was overcast, but this eerie green-blue glow could be seen from behind the clouds, a little glimpse of the Aurora to greet us as we got here.
As dawn broke, we left the airport and headed for the nearest town. I'm still trying to suss exactly how places are named, as the map seemed to call this town all of Reykjanes, Reykjanesbaer, and Keflavik. I think it is a case of small villages having grown and melded, and the -baer (I don't have the fonts to mash that a-e together properly) might be like Canadians would call a township or county or something... the greater area around the town proper. Possibly.
Not much seemed to be happening in the early morning, and since we thought we probably could not check in to our hotel before noon or so, we went adventuring around the upper Reykjanes peninsula, which has road completely around its coast. We were somewhere between several meters or several hundred meters from the sea on this route, watching beautiful and terrible waves coming in with the wind. We've already seen calm, overcast, very windy, rain, and just now as I look out the hotel window, snow flurries. The agent at our rental counter had actually made the "Don't like the weather? Just wait a minute!" comment about Iceland's weather, and also said it's a local saying that the gods test all the weather in Iceland before sending it elsewhere. I can see how this might be.
We didn't stop and wander too much on this drive, as we were tired, still in grungy and not very warm travel clothes, and it was windy. There will be a few photos later on @shuttermonster's gallery. We did stop and wander up to a strange ruin covered in a graffiti mural, and snapped some of the land and seascape around it. The views here are dark and stark, but in a very powerful way.
We completed the morning's drive with a cut through back across the middle of the peninsula to Keflavik, where shops and diners now seemed to be open and had interesting and quite tasty "boats" (the local translation equating to "sub" as in "submarine sandwich") for lunch. From there, as @shuttermonster is the sole driver and was turning into a pumpkin, we headed right for our hotel. Very quickly out of the seaside village, we found ourselves in what I called a moldy moonscape of lava fields. Our tour included 2 nights stay at the Blue Lagoon clinic hotel, next to a geothermal spa, The Blue Lagoon, that sits on top of a volcanic rift.
Photos will follow, but at the moment I'm blogging on the ipad and quickly finding some limitations of the Blogger interface on that device. We could both stand to freshen up, take a (short) nap, and then we have massage appts at the Blue Lagoon spa itself with a complementary voucher for the lagoon.
Sunday, February 12, 2012
Tea Eggs
The bloggability of my life seems to have been down of late. Most what I have to say fits in a tweet, or a personal conversation, I suppose. In some ways this is good - I tend to blog when things are on my mind, in a more melancholy way, not when I'm happily, if often tiredly, busy as I have been of late. One of the happily-busy things has been my circle of friends, so this is good. A recent potluck gathering was a wonderful way to spend an evening, and I much appreciate those who have the space for it, and the energy to offer it to a diverse and somewhat noisy if amiable crowd.
I thought I'd update my blog to admit I'm still here, and to share the "recipe" such as it is, for my potluck contribution - Spiced Tea Eggs.
I'll start with a disclaimer: I am in no way claiming this is an authentic Chinese Spiced Tea Egg recipe or that it's better or worse than you could do Googling for such. It's just the one I've hit on and it seemed to be appreciated. It's a mash-up of a couple recipes from friends and a couple hints I found online.
Here's what you need:
1 dozen eggs
1/2 cup light soy sauce
1/2 cup dark soy sauce
~ 4 cups water
2 tsp (or to taste) Five Spice powder
2-3 star anise
1/2 tsp citrus zest (orange, lemon, or mix)
1/4 tsp cracked black pepper (or to taste)
1/2 tsp ginger (or to taste... get the idea yet? flexible)
1 tbsp sugar (or to.. you get it.)
1 tbsp (or to taste, natch) of a strong black tea. I've used Scottish Breakfast, but any pekoe-type will do. To have a bit of fun, I used Lapsang Souchong, but don't do this if you don't like smoke flavours. The "tea" flavouring is rather mild in the end, though. Soy and spice come through more.
I should note about the marinade ingredients, pretty much every seasoning here is "to taste". I can't find two recipes/methods that have the same proportions or even the same spices. The essentials seem to be Five Spice Powder (and some recipes use just that, and not all Five Spice blends are the same) and a mix of light&dark soy sauces. Experiment - I do.
Here's what you do:
Put eggs in pot of cold water on stove, turn on element, and bring to boil. Boil 3 minutes or so, then turn off heat and let cool for a bit. The eggs don't have to be hard boiled at this stage, as they will cook quite a lot more in the marinade. You just want the whites to be solid before you hit them with anything.
When eggs are cool, gently crack the shells by tapping with a spoon, spatula, something dull. You want to crack the shell while leaving all the shell bits on the egg, and try not to dent any spots in, though it's not a disaster if you do.
Mix all marinade ingredients either in a pot or a crock pot, mixed with enough water to cover the eggs completely. Gently put the eggs back in. If using a crock-pot, bring up to a medium-ish temperature for ~ 4 hours, or set the crocker on "Warm" and leave overnight. If using a pot, bring back to a low-boil on medium high, then turn down to a very light simmer and leave for 2-3 hrs.
Once they've had a good simmer by either method, enjoy! You can eat warm, cool them and keep in fridge for easy-to-grab snacks, or if you like the flavour or want it stronger, store the eggs IN the marinade, chilled in the fridge. Fish them out, dry and peel one at a time, as needed.
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